Derry's Orchard & Nursery

But remember, as I stated above, estimating the final size of a grafted tree is a bit of a crap-shoot!!! There are so many variables.

Rootstock characteristics: the following information is from 'Intensive Orchard Management' by Bruce Barritt, Washington State University. 1992.

M9: dwarf, precocious (sets fruit early), brittle roots, must be staked for the life of the tree
Bud 9: dwarf, hardy, precocious, must be staked for the life of the tree.
M26: semi-dwarf, not as precocious as M9, more winter-hardy than M9, susceptible to collar rot.
M7: semi-dwarf, not as precocious as M26, less winter-hardy than M26, better for wet soils.
MM106: 3/4 x standard, no staking needed, not good for wet soils.
MM111: 3/4 x standard, more winter hardy than MM106, best for dry soils, also good for wet soils, no staking needed.
Antonovka: 3/4 x standard, hardy, no staking needed.

Quince A will need an interstem of Old Home or Beurre Hardy between the rootstock and many pear varieties. For a list of pear varieties compatible with quince A rootstock, see the NCGR Corvallis Pyrus Catalogue:

http://www.ars-grin.gov/cor/catalogs/pyrcompatible.html

I graft the rootstocks in March and April, put them into one gallon pots in raised beds and fertilize them with Osmocote (slow-release 14-14-14). The raised beds have an automatic watering system. By September, these grafted trees are ready for sale as one-year whips (near right). A one-year whip is sometimes called a 'maiden'. If I grow it for a second year, it will be branched (far right).

Collecting your own scionwood

The apple tree must be dormant (no leaves) and the buds must not have started to swell – December to February in south coastal B.C.

Ideally, the tree should be free-of-disease.

The earlier you cut the scions, the longer you have to store them so in zones 6-7-8 February is a good time to cut scions and you can graft in March.

Wait for a dry day!

The best scionwood is the wood which grew last year (2011). If you look closely at a branch of an apple tree – start looking at the very tip of the branch! Let your glance move slowly down the branch – first you will see the buds are quite far apart then they get closer and closer together and you will see a ring or rings around the branch. This is the ‘annual ring’ (also known as ‘bud scale scar’) and marks the point where growth started last year.

If you continue to glance further down the branch, you’ll see another annual ring - this marks the start of growth in 2010. Keep doing this and you will be able to tell how old the branch is.

Your scionwood should be wood which grew last year (2011). Now some scionwood is better than other scionwood.

The best scionwood is wood which is growing on the sunny side of the tree, up in the canopy, coming UP off the main branch at about 45° to 60°.

Wood hanging down is not good scionwood; wood growing horizontally is not good scionwood; wood growing straight up (water shoots) is not good scionwood.

The year’s growth should be 6-12” long and about pencil thickness (5/16”)

Cut the scion at the annual ring. Cut off the top bud and discard it. Label the scions with the name of the apple variety (using waterproof ink).

Barely moisten a paper towel – just a few drops of water scattered around the paper towel and wrap the scions in it. Put the wrapped scions in a plastic bag, close the bag tightly with a tie and store the bag in the bottom vegetable drawer of the refrigerator or similar cold, dry environment (1-3°C/33-37°F). Do not store apples or other ripening fruit in the fridge while you are storing scionwood.

Some reasons: watershoots have a lot of auxins and auxins will slow down the fruiting of your new tree plus they are too vegetative and contain too few carbohydrates.

Terminal buds produce auxin (a hormone) so cut off the terminal bud and don’t make it part of your three-bud scion.

Horizontal branches have lots of FRUIT buds and you want LEAF buds to make your new tree grow in the first year.

Wood which hangs down is weak wood.

If the new growth is only two or three inches, this will be weak wood and it is difficult to get a good three-bud scion.

A three-bud scion gives you three chances for success – you only need one bud to grow, so one of the three buds must grow to make your new tree. You can use a two-bud scion, but you’ve reduced your odds for success. You can even use a one-bud scion, but if that bud does not grow you’ve had it!

If your paper towel is wet rather than barely damp, mould will grow on your scion.

The bottom vegetable drawer of the fridge is least affected by the frost-free cycling. An old non frost-free fridge is better for storing scionwood if you have one. The cooler, the better, but don’t store scionwood in the freezer!

Ripening fruit produces ethylene and ethylene will kill the buds on the scionwood. The union will heal, but the buds will not grow.

If you have a friend or a relative who has a really good apple tree, just ask if you can collect some scionwood. Graft the scion on to an apple rootstock and you’ll have a tree which produces apples exactly like the one you admired … and you’ll have a new hobby!

A year in the life of a grafted apple tree.

Following is a description of how I deal with my newly grafted trees. Feedback is welcomed.

I do my grafts and bundle each variety together and store them in damp sawdust out of the sun, out of the wind, out of the rain, ideally at 7-9°C (in a room in the barn). I use the plastic milk cartons/crates 13” x 13” x 10.5” high and put a black plastic bag inside the crate and inside the plastic bag I put my grafted trees upright in bundles packed with damp (not wet!) sawdust.

I tie the black plastic bag over the sawdust so the unions are covered, but the scions are not. This increases the humidity around the unions and also prevents the sawdust from drying out.

I’ve read that some people cover their unions for this first month. There is often not enough depth in the milk crates for the sawdust to cover the unions, but if you found a deeper container, it would be a good idea to cover the unions.

I don’t want them in the dark or the leaves will open up white (etiolated).

I’m in south coastal B.C. and I try to finish my grafting by the end of March.

Before the end of April, I pot the newly grafted dwarf trees into one-gallon pots (larger rootstocks into 2 gallon pots) in a commercially-prepared bark mulch/sawdust/peat mixture (West Creek Farms in Fort Langley) .

I have four raised beds about 12' x 4' x 16" high. These beds were originally made for vegetables and they are in a compound surrounded by deer fencing.

There are about ten raised beds and I have commandeered four of the beds for my grafts. The soil has been removed so my pots are on the ground surrounded by 16" walls. There is an automatic overhead sprinkling system and a layer of metal hardware cloth (1 cm x 1 cm holes) on the ground under the pots to keep the meadow mice (voles) out. The hardware cloth is attached to the sides and a tight hole has been cut for the irrigation risers so the voles cannot get in!!!!

The height of the beds seems to deter the rabbits. I've never had rabbit damage, but I don't leave the pots in the beds over winter (anthracnose canker loves cold wet bark) and rabbits usually do their damage in the winter.

I use slow-release fertilizer.

In 2009, I used 125 gms Osmocote 14-14-14 (3-4 months) for every 10 x one-gallon pots (12.5 gms/pot) and every 6 x 11L pots (20 gms/pot). 12.5 gms is 2.5 teaspoons per one gallon pot. Twenty grams is 4 teaspoons per 11L pot..

This works out to 1.75 gm Nitrogen per one gallon pot and 2.9 gms per 11L pot. I think I'll cut back even more in 2012.

It has been my experience that the root growth is better in pots than in the ground - more fibrous and more roots. In the ground they seem to produce one or two thicker roots and almost no fibrous roots.

In 2007, we had another well drilled so now I can use the automatic watering system for the whole of the summer.

For the last five years, we have had very hot dry summers, so I have put a lot of time into manually watering my nursery trees at least every two days and sometimes daily if it is very hot in July and August.

Bits and pieces: My MM106 and MM111 and M26 go into 11 L (2.5 gallon) pots and produce a very nice root system.

In September I start selling them.

Those that remain in mid-November are moved to my car-port. Here they are out of the rain and away from the rabbits.

In mid-February, I take them out of the carport and water them and start my selling season with Seedy Saturday at VanDusen Gardens. I cut the whips back to 27” from the soil level. The branches should form in the 6-8-10” below the cut. There should be no branches below about 18”. 30" would be a better height, but my truck canopy is 27" high and I transport my whips in the back of my pick-up truck with canopy in place.

By early May I am usually almost sold out. The remaining trees are 'potted up' into larger pots and go back into the raised beds, but with more space between them because in the second year they will put out branches.

If I have a grafted tree that I want to plant in my orchard, I have been waiting until they are two-years old. Meadow mice (voles) love the roots of one-year old apple trees. If they happen to run a tunnel next to a young apple tree they will eat absolutely every root and leave only a pointed stick where the roots were.

In November, 2005, I did plant about 15 one-year old trees, but I planted them in an open-bottomed cylinder of hardware cloth. The diameter of the cylinder is about 10”, the depth is about 10”. The holes are 1 cm x 1 cm. I plan to remove this cylinder of wire mesh in about November 2008 (I never did!). This has been well worthwhile. The roots of the nursery trees have not been eaten by the meadow voles. (In February, 2012, the wire mesh is still around the whips!).

My hope is that by having the mesh around the roots for three years, some roots will get big enough that the meadow mice won’t eat them. By removing the mesh in November, some small roots will be broken, but they should grow back quickly in the rainy months of November-December-January. Stay tuned to see how it works.

Friends have told me that 'bridging' should occur when the root grows through the 1 cm hole and then it grows thicker. The wire should become surrounded by root and after time, the wire will be embedded in the root. It may not be necessary to remove the wire mesh. I don't know.

If there is a variety you would like, let me know. I can make almost anything if I can get scionwood. The ideal time to let me know is in January so I can find the appropriate scionwood. A good source of scionwood (and rootstocks) is the B C Fruit Testers Annual General Meeting in Saanich (March 17, 2012). See 'Events' on this web site.

If you would like me to send you this list, please email me.

The following is a chart giving more information on all of these varieties. The information was taken from Martin Crawford's Directory of Apple Cultivars (references)



February 4, 2012. I just cannot seem to copy and paste my 2012 list of apple trees for sale to here on my website. I have left the old chart (2011) until I can figure out what's happening.

If you'd like a copy of the apple trees for sale in February 2012, just email me:

'derry' and the symbol for 'at' plus 'derrysorchardandnursery.ca'

Apologies.

Antonovka  Russia before 1900	large, round	yellow	milky white, sweet-sharp, juicy, crisp	becomes sweet, good	high, very hardy, good cropper	early-mid   Day 8	Sept- Oct	M9	very res to scab
Ard Cairn Russet Ireland c1890	medium, round	orange red flush under golden russet	deep cream, sweet, dry, firm	banana-like flavour	high vigour, upright, good cropper	mid     Day 12	late Sept	M26	resistant to scab
Bramley's Seedling  Notts  1809	very large	greenish-yellow	white, tinged green, sharp, juicy, firm	sharp, for cooking, juice, and cider	high vigour, heavy cropper	mid      Day 12   *triploid*	early Oct	M26	slightly susceptible to scab
Chisel Jersey Somerset 19th Cent	medium, conical	red flushed, prone to russeting and cracking	firm	cider= full bittersweet, very astringent	mod vigour, upright, bears young	late     Day 22	November	M26	for cider: good quality, full of body
Dabinett  Somerset, UK	small-med, round	greenish-yellow, flushed dull red	firm, aromatic	cider = full bittersweet vintage	low, shade-tolerant, bears young	mid     Day 15   sf	late Oct-Nov	M26	resistant to scab, cider apple
Duchess of Oldenburg Russia c1700	large, round, hangs well	pale yellow, striped and mottled red	deep cream, sharp, juicy		mod vigour, very hardy	early     Day 4	mid Aug	M26 MM111	with bloom, suitable for pot
Easter Orange       UK 1897	medium, round	orange flushed scarlet, russet dots	deep cream, sweet, chewy, crisp	aromatic, flavour rich, intense	mod vigour, good cropper	mid    Day 12	early Oct	M26
Etter's Gold California c1942	med-large, round	golden yellow	light yellow, sweet-sharp, crisp	excellent eating apple	good cropper		October	M26
Fortune     Beds, UK 1931	medium, short, round, conical	greenish-yellow, striped and flushed red, thin	cream, sweet, juicy, firm	sl aromatic, flavour rich if fully ripe	mod vigour, bears young, good cropper	mid      Day 9     psf	early Sept	M26	resistant to scab
Golden Nugget        NS 1932	small, conical	yellow, streaked and splashed orange	sweet-sharp, juicy, crisp	aromatic, flavour rich, intense, acid	mod, bears young, good cropper	mid     Day 10	late Sept	MM111	spur-bearing, res to scab
Gravenstein    Europe      1873	medium-large, oblong	greenish-yellow striped red	cream, sweet-sharp, juicy, melting, crisp	excellent	high vigour, spur-bearing,  often biennial	early   *triploid*	late August	M9 M7
Greensleeves   Kent        1977	medium, oblong	pale greenish-yellow, occ pinky -orange flush	deep cream, sweet-sharp, juicy, firm	flavour pleasant	low vigour, hardy, bears young, heavy cropper	early      Day 7   psf	lete Sept- early Oct	MM111	resistant to scab
Hidden Rose Oregon  c2006	med	yellow-peach	deep red					M26
Ildrød Pigeon Denmark   1840	medium	heavily flushed red, smooth	white, juicy, crisp	sl aromatic, hint of strawberry	low vigour, good cropper	mid    Day 10	early Oct	M7
Ingrid Marie Denmark c1910	medium-large, flat-round	greenish-yellow striped red, flushed dk red	pale cream, quite sharp, juicy, soft	sl aromatic, flavour quite rich	mod vigour, good cropper	mid     Day 14	late Sept	MM111	Cox O x
Irish Peach   Ireland    1819	medium, round-conical	pale yellow, flushed brownish-red	pale cream, sweet-sharp, juicy, crisp	sl aromatic, flavour rich, excellent	high vigour, upright, very hardy	early     Day 5	mid Aug	MM111
Jupiter       Kent           1981	large, round-conical	gr-yellow, striped and flushed orange-red	white, sweet, juicy	aromatic, flavour intense, robust	high vigour, heavy cropper	mid     Day 14   *triploid*	early Oct	M9	resistant to scab
Kidd's Orange Red             NZ 1924	medium, conical	pale yellow/gold, stripes, russeted	deep cream, sweet-sharp, juicy, crisp, aromatic	flavour rich, balanced	mod vigour, upright, good cropper	mid    Day 12	mid Oct	M9	resistant to scab
King of Tompkins       NJ 1804	large, flat-round, ribbed	yellow, carmine red flushed and striped	deep cream, sweet-sharp, juicy, crisp, aromatic	sl aromatic, some watercore	high, spreading, slow to bear, good cropper	mid       Day 10 *triploid*	mid Oct	M9 B9	resistant to scab
Kingston Black Somerset	small, conical	yellow orange, flushed dark maroon	cider: bittersharp, of vintage quality	aromatic, full bodied, distinctive	mod vigour, poor cropper	mid     Day 15	early Nov	M9 B9 111
Laxton's Superb          UK 1897	medium, round-conical	green-yellow, fl deep red-purple, striped red	white, sweet, juicy, soft	nutty, quite rich	high vigour, often biennial, heavy cropper	mid      Day 13   psf	early Oct	M26	prefers wet climate
Lemon Pippin        UK? <1744	medium, oblong	lemon yellow, dotted	yellow, sweet-sharp	firm	moderate vigour, upright, heavy cropper	mid-late  Day 15	early Oct	Ant
Liberty         NY           1978	med, round-conical	yellow, flushed burgundy	whitish-yellow, sweet-sharp, juicy, crisp	flavour good	high vigour, spreading, bears young, heavy cropper	mid (long blooming)  D9 psf		M26	scab-free
Lord Lambourne UK 1907	medium, flat-round	green-yellow, bright red flush	pale cream, sweet-sharp, juicy, crisp	some strawberry flavour	mod vigour, bears young, good cropper	early-mid  Day 8    psf	mid Sept	MM111	partial tip bearer
Melrose      Ohio           1944	large, flat- round	yellow-green, shiny red flushed and streaked	cream, sweet-sharp, juicy, crisp	flavour brisk, refreshing	mod vigour, bears young often biennial	mid      Day 10	mid Oct	M9 M26	susceptible  to scab
Newtown Pippin  NY 1759	medium, flat-round	greenish-yellow flushed lt orange-brown	pale cream, sweet-sharp, juicy, crisp	aromatic, flavour brisk, very good	mod vigour, slow to bear, good cropper	mid       Day 10	mid Oct	M9	also used for cider
Northern Spy         New York    c1800	med-large, round conical	green turning yellow, flushed dark red	cream, sweet-sharp, juicy, crisp	rich, intense, fruity, also for cooking	mod vigour, upright, slow to bear, good cropper	late    Day 17	mid-late Oct	M9	tip bearer
Pink Pearl California  1941	medium, round	pink	bright pink, juicy, crisp	rich			Sept	MM111
Pomme Gris St Lawrence Valley 1803	small, oblate-round	yellow-green, russeted, thick skin	yellow, firm, crisp, juicy, rich, subacid	aromatic, rich, excellent dessert	mod cropper		Sept	M26	stores well  aka Swayzie
Rtte Rouge d'Etoile       Belg 1830	medium, round-conical	gold, flushed dark red, stars of russet	white, stained pink, quite sharp, juicy, firm	intense, raspberry	high vigour, upright, heavy cropper	late     Day 17	late Sept-early Oct	M9	aka Sterappel
Ross Nonpariel Ireland 1802	medium, flat-round	pale yellow flushed deep orange, russeted	cream, sweet-sharp, flavour intense, very good		mod vigour, upright, good cropper	early    Day 8	late Sept	MM111	very resistant to scab
Roxbury  R Mass early1600s	medium- large, conical	russeted with red flush	cream, tinged green, sweet, aromatic	flavour good	moderate vigour, often biennial, good cropper	mid           Day 12	mid Oct	M9 MM106	resistant to scab
Stoke Red  Somerset	small-medium	yellow, flushed bright red	cider category: medium bittersweet	sharp, some astringency	mod vigour, spreading, heavy cropper	late     Day 25	late Oct	M26	very res to scab, shade tolerant
Suntan     Kent           1956	medium, flat-round	gold flushed orange-red, striped red	deep cream, sweet-sharp, juicy, firm	aromatic, rich, very good	high vigour, spreading, good cropper	late     Day 20 *triploid*	early oct	M9 M26	scab-free
Tumanga Germany 1930s	medium	yellow, smooth	sweet, crisp, juicy	sl aromatic, quite intense rich flavour	moderate vigour, heavy cropper	mid     Day 15	Sept	MM111	stores to Feb
White Sinap Russia	medium	yellow						MM111

Recommended List of Cider Apples from my Langley, B.C., experience

by Derek Bisset phone: 604 888 7867
e-mail: 'derek_bisset' and the symbol for 'at' plus 'shaw.ca'

Yarlington Mill
Somerset vintage late mid season bittersweet cider apple.grown in modern bush cider orchards.
Fruit medium-large , conical , yellow with dull red flush here in BC.
Blossom mid to late May (Day 15).
Tree has moderate vigour making a mid size tree on M26. Growth is spreading with strong side branches which can easily overtake leader . Heavy crops every year .
Relatively disease-free with no evidence of scab . Some resistance to canker.
Fruit drops in early to mid October but can hang later . Can be milled immediately but stores into November
Juice is superior for cider with good sugar , mild tannin and earthy aroma for those who like a very full, strong flavour.

Dabinett
Somerset vintage late bittersweet cider apple highly recommended for modern bush orchards
Fruit medium but can be small, flattened round always coloured dark red .Regular crops
Blossom mid to late May (Day 15 self-fertile).
Tree is a very weak grower and needs at least MM106 to make a moderate size tree .Trees have spreading branches and leader can be lost .Potash fertilizing recommended .
Disease free with some resistance to canker .
Fruit is late dropping mid to late October and stores well for milling later in November .
Juice is excellent for cider , fruity with good aroma and pleasant , mild tannin. Low acid needs to be blended with sharp juice for balanced cider. Cider is light, soft,and with a fruity aroma .

Chisel Jersey
Somerset vintage late bittersweet cider apple grown extensively in modern orchards .
Fruit is small to medium, conical with bright red colour . Heavy, regular crops.
Cracking and russetting reported in England not observed here .
Blossom mid to late May (Day 22).
Excellent tree form , mid size on M26 with upright growth making a neat christmas tree shaped centre leader tree with very little pruning or shaping required. Good for hedgerow .
Disease free with some resistance to canker .
Late fruit drops in late October, can hang later and stores very well for milling in November.
Juice has a pleasant tannin and produces cider with a light floral aroma .

Other Varieties:

Muscadet de Dieppe is commonly available It produces well for me although there are numerous reports of poor productivity.It blooms early (Day 5). It makes good full, astringent cider although it has a couple of drawbacks ; it is very biennial , alternating heavy crop with no crop at all ; it is ready in August and doesn't store so that fermentation must take place fast in warm conditions , not the best for good cider .
Michelin and Tremlett's Bitter are available and often recommended as good producers . I have found disease to be a problem with both . Michelin blooms Day 15 and produces very well but is a weak grower and has been canker prone The juice is good for blending although not considered vintage .Tremlett's Bitter blooms early (Day 5) and is reported by others to produce well but without spraying develops severe scab to the point that all leaves are lost midsummer and the tree weakens . The juice has a hard tannin suitable for blending .
Stoke Red looks promising . It blooms late (Day 25). It is a vigorous grower with large crops of small to medium fruit of vintage quality .
Marechal blooms late (Day 25) and is turning out to be a large, vigorous tree also with heavy crops and with fair resistance to disease.
Kingston Black blooms Day 15 and produces what is considered the most valuable juice. It has a reputation as a canker-prone variety but avoided disease for a surprising length of time
Brown's Apple (blooms Day 18) and Sweet Coppin (blooms Day 15) so far have not grown well .
Foxwhelp as it appears locally has come to be called Fauxwhelp as it bears no resemblance to the true English variety which is a small, red, early apple. Fauxwhelp is early, but is large, green-yellow with some red striping . One suggestion is that it is from an interstem variety which got out of control and came to be propagated as Foxwhelp

Notes:

cider – is apple juice fermented somewhat in the manner of a white wine. It can be made with any apple, but traditional cider varieties give special qualities to the cider.
bitter - tannin in juice from these apples gives cider with good colour and a fullness to taste not found in cider made from dessert apples only.
bittersweet – has high sugar content as well as high tannin. Most of the best cider apples are in this group but juice requires blending with sharps to produce a balanced cider .
sharp – often cooking or crab apples are used to blend and provide sharp flavour in cider since many of the best cider apples lack acidity, Acidity gives cider a brisk, refreshing quality and helps with preservation. It can be overpowering in new cider but reduces over time and what was thought to be an unpleasant sour apple cider kept for two or three years can improve remarkably.
bittersharp - relatively uncommon has bitterness and acidity
hard/soft tannin – differentiates between qualities of tannin in different apples . Dabinett has a full, soft pleasant tannin while Tremblett's Bitter tannin is is harsh and has to be used carefully .
Early/mid/late – is used to refer to blossom, picking and ripening dates .
biennial - older varieties of cider apple all tend to become biennial bearing heavy crops one year and none the following. Unfortunately this appears to be related to climate and all varieties with the tendency will come into phase over time with the same on and off years. In most cases experiment has shown that thinning does little to help. Modern varieties mentioned as being suitable for bush orchards are chosen to avoid biennialism .
blossom - most cider apples blossom around mid-May in the Lower Mainland
falling date - most cider apples unlike dessert apples are not picked from the tree, but are allowed to fall or are shaken down and picked from grass sward..To do this a date when most apples drop is useful.
ripening date – may not coincide with picking. It is important to allow maximum sugar to develop before milling and late varieties are stored until testing shows full ripeness.Dabinett may drop in October and be kept several weeks into November before milling. Waiting may also be useful to cool cider-making conditions since most cider makers want slow fermentations .
tree size - results from a combination of rootstock effects and vigour . Thus a weak grower like Dabinett produces a very small tree on M26 and a moderate size tree on MM106 while Yarlington and Chisel Jersey produce moderate size trees on M26 . Larger trees are recommended for cider apples since the fruit tend to be numerous and smaller to be shaken down for picking They require less pruning since size and appearance of fruit is less an issue compared to dessert apples.
disease – canker is the main concern because of tree losses. All the cider apple trees get canker and none have complete resistance . However some trees like Michelin become cankered very quickly in our conditions while Chisel Jersey and Dabinett appear to resist infection for longer . Yarlington has avoided infection longest for me . Scab is less of a concern although I have found I could not grow Tremblett's Bitter well because scab caused it to lose leaves so badly it went into decline . Presumably spraying would correct this although clean culture alone did not .
single variety – none of the cider apples used alone produces a rounded, full cider. They are best in a blend which has juice with tannin acid and sugar in balance as well as some apples chosen for aroma .
blending - is required to produce a balanced cider with suggested one third of each : cider apples for bitterness , crab or sharp cooking for acid , and dessert for sweetness and aroma .
milling – apples varieties selected for cider have milling qualities not found in dessert or dual purpose apples . Unlike most apples which tend to mush to a puree when milled, these apples come out of the mill as chips with almost a sawdust consistency . A puree is very hard to press since there are no channels for the juice . Think of trying to press applesauce . Cider apple pulp appears to be drier but actually produces more juice because it runs more freely .

New Publication from Washington State University:
Hard Cider Production & Orchard Management in the Pacific Northwest. PNW 621.
G.A. Moulton, C.A. Miles, and J. King. 2010. 40pp.
http://pubs.wsu.edu
ext.pubs@wsu.edu

Last Updated on February 4, 2012.

By Derry Walsh